Two things that may surprise you. One, you can milk a donkey (and yes, it’s also sometimes called ass milk). Two, people love the milk.
Over the past couple of months, Jean-Michel Evequoz, a
chef and teacher at Les Roches International School of Hotel Management in
Switzerland, has been experimenting with donkey’s milk, with a view to figuring
out just how well it lends itself to traditional European cuisine.
Thus far, he’s made a simple panna cotta, a “mousse au
chocolat blanc” and he’s working on an emulsion of donkey’s milk and wild
flowers to complement a poached lobster.
‘Donkey milk works very well in a number of recipes, and
when you add in sugar and chocolate in particular, the taste is amazing.’
“The milk works very well in a number of recipes,” says
Evequoz, “and when you add in sugar and chocolate in particular, the taste is
amazing.”
Evequoz is one of a small yet growing number of donkey
milk aficionados in Europe, all of whom are instrumental for what’s become a
sort of renaissance of both the milk as well as the animal that produces it.
Although donkeys played an important role in European
history and were key to everyday life up until the Industrial Revolution, the
advent and widespread use of machinery very quickly relegated the donkey to
relative oblivion. Except for a few villages where a more traditional lifestyle
prevailed, donkey milk is remembered mainly because Cleopatra allegedly bathed
in it, says Pierluigi Orunesu, founder of Eurolactis, a company based in
Switzerland and Italy focused exclusively on
donkey’s milk.
Orunesu is originally from Sardinia and grew up seeing
donkeys around his native village. Fascinated by this “gentle and special
animal,” in 2007, Orunesu found a farm that had bred donkeys for over 20 years
and launched Eurolactis.
At that time, the farm had 350 donkeys. Today, Orunesu
says, the number has grown to over 900, in response to the increased demands
Eurolactis is getting for donkey’s milk, both for cosmetic reasons (the firm
supplies the milk to a large French cosmetics company that makes soaps and
creams) as well as for dietary ones, since a number of studies have shown that
donkey’s milk is ideal for those who suffer from traditional dairy allergies.
That’s because the ratio of casein to whey protein in
donkey’s milk is almost identical to human milk, Orunesu says, and like human
milk, donkey’s milk is also rich in lactose and low in fat. These similarities
inspired Eurolactis to produce powdered donkey milk formula in Europe for
babies and children with allergies to both dairy and soy milks. Earlier this
year, the company also experimented with ultra-high temperature (UHT)
technology to package liquid donkey milk in Tetrapaks.
Donkey’s milk is light and easy to digest, and across
Europe, demand continues to increase, Orunesu says. In the first four months of
this year, he says he has doubled his business and now is actively looking in
the U.S. to connect with companies interested in using donkey’s milk for
cosmetic purposes. Although the consumption of donkey’s milk in America may
still be a ways off, “I get a question from the U.S. just about every week from
people looking for dairy milk substitutes who have heard about donkey’s milk,”
he says.
Raising donkeys is much easier than raising either horses
or cows, says Jean-Francois Wanbeke, a computer engineer-turned-donkey breeder.
He and his wife, Benedicte, were novices the field: They
started raising donkeys in 1997 and today run a successful farm in the
foothills of France’s Pyrenees mountains, where they not only produce and sell
donkey’s milk and experiment with it in their cooking, but also educate
visitors to their farm about the animal.
Wanbeke believes that the greatest challenge for those
who are serious about donkeys and donkey milk is to make sure that the supply
and demand dynamics remain in balance.
“The whole point is that donkey’s milk shouldn’t become a
mass-produced industry like bovine milk,” he says.
Fortunately, the donkey’s milk-producing ability may do
that naturally, since a female can only give between 1.5 and two liters of milk
a day (compared to around 50 or 60 liters for a cow), Orunesu says.
This automatically rules out the possibility of mass
production (also, female donkeys can only be milked by hand, he says), and will
limit the use of donkey’s milk to a smaller, more select market.
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